When travelling, we encounter beautiful landscapes, historic buildings and traditional crafts.

However, the culture of a place is not made up solely of finished products.

Behind every single item lies a craft passed down over a long period of time,

and the handiwork of skilled artisans.

Cutting the fabric, carefully piecing it together, and sewing it stitch by stitch—

it is through this cumulative process that a product is completed.

This GUIDE is not intended merely to introduce a single product.

It is a book designed to allow you to experience Japan’s sewing culture whilst journeying through the workshops where these items are crafted.

Techniques passed down since the company’s founding in 1947.

Things that change, and things that remain the same.

And encounters with new cultures.

With care and thought poured into every single stitch, Japan’s craftsmanship continues to be passed on to the next generation of travellers, even today.

We hope you enjoy this little journey.

When they hear the word ‘sewing’, many people may picture the act of stitching fabric with a sewing machine.

However, in the world of craftsmanship, sewing is underpinned by a much wider range of processes.

A variety of materials—such as fabric, metal fittings and lining—are delivered to the workshop.

In their raw state, these materials do not yet constitute a finished product.

They must be cut to the required shape, their thickness adjusted, bonded, sewn together, the details finished, and finally inspected.

Each stage has its own specific role, and if even one is missing, the quality is significantly affected.

Sewing is not simply the single task of ‘stitching’;

it is a craft in which numerous processes and the skills of artisans come together to give shape to a single product.

In this GUIDE, we will introduce Japan’s sewing culture by tracing each of these individual stages.

Cutting

The first stage is cutting.

Fabric and leather are cut to precise dimensions according to the pattern.

As even the slightest error can affect the quality of the finished product, a high degree of precision is required.

Structural Planning

Where necessary, the thickness of the fabric is checked.

By calculating the thickness at points where the fabric is folded or overlaps,

we ensure both an attractive finish and ease of use.

Bonding

The cut components are carefully bonded together, one by one.

Bonding plays a vital role in ensuring a smooth transition to the next stage of production.

Sewing

The components are carefully sewn together using a sewing machine.

This is a crucial stage that significantly affects not only the aesthetic appeal of the seams but also the strength and durability of the product.

Finishing

After sewing, we refine the details to enhance the overall beauty and comfort of the product.

It is the accumulation of these meticulous finishing touches that greatly determines the level of perfection.

Inspection

Each finished product is carefully inspected one by one.

We meticulously check the stitching and finishing, and only those that meet our quality standards are delivered to our customers.

Shōwa 22

In the immediate post-war period in Japan, Fukunaga Sewing began its journey in craftsmanship.

Whilst people’s lifestyles and the products they seek have changed with the times,

our commitment to meticulous craftsmanship has remained unchanged since our founding and continues to be passed down to this day.

To ensure that each product is cherished for many years to come,

we spare no effort even on the unseen details and treat every single step of the process with care.

This cumulative dedication has earned the trust of many customers and has been passed down to the present day.

The history of Fukunaga Sewing is not merely a history of continuously manufacturing products.

It is also a history of honing our skills, nurturing our people and adapting to the changing times,

whilst passing on the culture of craftsmanship to the next generation.

From the founder to the second generation,

and from the second to the third generation,

it is not just technical skills that have been passed down.

The dedication to every single stitch has also been passed down across the generations.

At Fukunaga Sewing, from the first generation through to the second and third,

knowledge of how to use machinery and tools, as well as work procedures, has been passed down.

These skills were not conveyed through words alone.

By observing each stage of the process at close quarters and gaining experience through hands-on work,

they mastered the techniques for manufacturing tool cases and knife cases that have been in use since the company’s founding.

However, passing on these traditions does not mean simply preserving the old ways.

Building on the skills cultivated over the years, the third generation

is driving improvements in quality and production efficiency, evolving the craft towards ever-greater precision.

Manufacturing is not something that can be sustained by the efforts of a single person alone.

The skills honed over many years are passed down from person to person, linking us to the next generation.

At Fukunaga Sewing too, the skills and experience passed down since our founding

have been carefully preserved in our day-to-day manufacturing.

However, it is not just skills that are passed on.

Our approach to working with materials,

our refusal to compromise on even the smallest details,

and the desire to deliver products that our customers will cherish for years to come

All of these are passed down within our workshop.

At the same time, the products and manufacturing methods demanded by the times continue to evolve.

Fukunaga Sewing specialises in ‘heavy-duty sewing’, which involves stitching thick materials.

It is not uncommon for us to be approached with requests that other factories have turned down as too difficult, or for advice on difficult-to-handle materials

At Fukunaga Sewing, when faced with such requests, we first consider how to make it before deciding it is impossible

We craft our own jigs to attach to sewing machines, create tools suited to each stage of the process, and adjust for the stiffness and thickness of the fabric

Rather than relying solely on off-the-shelf machinery and tools, in order to complete a single product,

we devise the manufacturing method itself

‘If it doesn’t exist, we’ll make it. Contributing to society.’

This philosophy underpins Fukunaga Sewing’s approach to manufacturing.

Fukunaga Sewing regards itself as ‘the last bastion of sewing’.

If we were to turn down a request, someone might be left in a difficult situation.

That is precisely why we carefully assess the characteristics of the materials, visualise the end user, and thoroughly devise solutions to see the project through to completion.

Mass production is not the sole measure of value in manufacturing.

Provided it is for the sake of those who appreciate our ‘Made in Japan’ commitment,

we will produce even a single item.

For Fukunaga Sewing, it is not quantity that matters.

What matters is engaging fully with each commission and taking responsibility for every single stitch.

Whilst embracing new technologies,

our commitment to quality—cherished since our founding—remains unchanged.

Preserving tradition and continuing to take on new challenges—

by building upon both of these, Fukunaga Sewing’s craftsmanship

will continue to be passed down into the future.

The Start of a New Journey

In 2008, following the Lehman Shock, orders for the tool cases and

knife cases we had been manufacturing for many years began to decline.

Prompted by this situation, Fukunaga Sewing set out to explore new avenues of manufacturing.

Leveraging our expertise in sewing heavy fabrics, we began to give new purposes to materials that had not previously been used in our products,

as well as to materials that had reached the end of their useful life.

Fukunaga Sewing has been pursuing this approach—now known as ‘upcycling’—

long before the term became widely recognised.

We explore the characteristics of each material and devise a second purpose suited to it.

This is not merely a matter of reducing waste;

it is the work of transforming materials once again into items that serve a useful purpose for people.

Sewing techniques passed down over many years

continue to foster new encounters as the times change.

One such encounter was with Nishijin-ori.

Nishijin-ori, from Kyoto, boasts a history of over a thousand years.

To give form to its delicate beauty in products for everyday use,

advanced sewing techniques and meticulous craftsmanship are essential.

Traditional craftsmanship and sewing—

the meeting of these distinct skills has given rise to a new form of value.

Thus was born the ‘NISHIJIN TRAVEL COLLECTION’.

It is a collection designed not only to enhance your travel experience,

but also to bring Japanese culture closer to you

Each and every product embodies

both the skill of the Nishijin weavers and that of the artisans responsible for the sewing

Culture cannot be passed down by one person alone

It is through the connection of the skills and aspirations of many people that it is passed on to a new future

And that journey will continue into the future

A single product is never created by the efforts of just one person alone.

Those who craft the materials

Those who cut the fabric

Those who bond the pieces

Those who sew the garment together

Those who finish the product

Those who inspect the finished goods

The skills and dedication of each of these people are passed down, coming together to form a single product that is then delivered to its next owner.

The techniques that Fukunaga Sewing has passed down are not merely for the purpose of making products.

From person to person

From generation to generation

They are also skills designed to carry Japan’s culture of craftsmanship into the future

We would be delighted if, through this GUIDE, you were able to sense a glimpse of that journey

And there is another aspect of Japanese culture with which these skills have intersected

Nishijin-ori, with a history spanning over a thousand years

That story continues in the next GUIDE

‘At first, I thought it might be a kimono sash,’

says Ms Fukunaga.

Whilst the beauty of Nishijin-ori was captivating, she also

felt anxious that the threads might fray the moment she cut the fabric

Furthermore, she considered the possibility that, even if she could shape the fabric, it might fray or become damaged

However, she was certain that the beautiful colours and patterns would be appreciated by people overseas as well

That is precisely why she approached this project

by carefully considering everything from the ‘persona’ and ‘timing’—including who the product was intended for and where it would be sold—

as she worked on it

The ‘corners’ proved the greatest challenge

As they carried out repeated prototyping, the biggest challenge turned out to be the four corners of the passport case.

As Nishijin-ori is quite thick, standard backstitching caused the corners to overlap in multiple layers,

resulting in significant bulging.

Initially, they tried a method using heavy-duty sewing techniques to compress the fabric

However, the transition between the straight lines and the corners curved ever so slightly,

and we were unable to achieve a beautiful finish.

We therefore adopted a technique known as ‘Tamaberi’ at Fukunaga Sewing.

By hand-wrapping the outer edge one by one with a soft material,

the corners stood up beautifully, whilst the overall thickness was kept to a minimum.

Furthermore,

・We adjusted the width of the tamaberi edging for each fabric

・Allowing extra room at the corners

・Applying the ‘Ise-dori’ technique specific to double-folded edges

・Using transparent thread for the final stitching so as not to detract from the Nishijin-ori pattern

It is these meticulous details that underpin the finish of each volume.

Each of these passport cases is, one by one,

cut by hand,

glued together by hand,

and sewn by hand.

Even the outer edges are not produced using a mass-production method involving specialised moulds, but are entirely crafted by hand by our artisans.

‘This is not a mass-produced item. It is made in Japan, and it is a Fukunaga product.’

Those few words conveyed a deep sense of pride in their craftsmanship.

Future Challenges

Finally, we asked about the materials they would like to explore in the future.

‘There are still Japanese materials we haven’t discovered yet.

By combining materials from across Japan—such as washi paper and textiles—with waste materials and offcuts from production,

we hope to create new value.’

Every material has its own role to play.

Giving a new purpose to materials that have fulfilled their original role—

that, too, is part of Fukunaga Sewing’s philosophy of ‘craftsmanship’.